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James Suckling: "San Polino is a tiny nirvana for the production of Brunello di Montalcino. Their Brunellos have an incredible clarity and pureness of fruit that is unequalled in the region. Their Helichrysum Brunello in particular is outstanding"
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Here is what some of the judges said:
'With pronounced intensity, this is a full bodied wine with smooth tannins and a long finish that's complex with notes of fruit, oak and bottle ageing.' - Konstantinos Katridis, The Fat Duck.
'Ripe, dark cherries and a hint of dried herbs, as well as violets and tobacco, with some velvety tannins.' - Natasha Senina, Chewton Glen.
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"Walter canvasses some of Montalcino's top producers for their take on this challenging and unusually abundant vintage (...) 'You know the paradox of Schrödinger's cat?' Katia Nussbaum of San Polino asked me last October, when I inquired how the 2024 growing cycle had been"
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"As I see it, regenerative viticulture means that we (ourselves) and the vines and the soil and everything organic in the vineyard and surrounding areas are all equally part of a giant ecosystem, a common nutrient cycle, the only independent entity being the sun, from which everything else takes life. The act of nurturing a mutually beneficial nutrient cycle is the act of regenerative practices, which by their nature ripple out far beyond the vineyard, winery into the community and beyond".
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"Katia Nussbaum and Luigi (Gigi) Fabbro are two of the most friendly people you could ever wish to meet in the wine world. I remember tasting their wine for the first time in 2014 and being surprised by how charming and approachable their Brunello di Montalcino was too."
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"Our Brunello tastings in both Tuscany and our Hong Kong office over the past year mostly focused on the 2018 vintage, which will be released on the market beginning in January 2023, and many of the wines we tried show excellent balance and drinkability (...) The vineyards for San Polino Brunello di Montalcino Helichrysum 2018 and San Polino Brunello di Montalcino 2018 have been farmed since 2001."
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"San Polino, now a renowned Brunello di Montalcino winery, is said to have been founded in the 10th century, following the barbarian invasions that forced the inhabitants of the Etruscan city of Roselle to seek refuge near the Abbey of Sant’Antimo."
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"At the beginning of August I visited Katia Nussbaum and her husband Luigi Fabbro at San Polino, their estate in Montalcino. Nussbaum, who in a widely admired article wrote about how she would like biodynamics to embrace science and become less dogmatic, wants San Polino to be more than just a wine estate"
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"When I last visited, the washing was hanging out on the line in front of the farmhouse – it’s that kind of place. We conversed around the kitchen table, where we would have tasted the wines too if Nussbaum had not been baking a rather delicious smelling lasagna. Fabbro is a whirlpool of ideas. He is, among other things, a trained chemist and a computer scientist, and in another life he studied biodiversity in the Amazon jungle."
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"I'm here in the vineyards of San Polino, a small producer in Montalcino making wonderful Brunello di Montalcino from biodynamically grown grapes. I have never visited here before, so I want to get to know the owners, taste their wines and find out why the wines are such excellent quality"
Click here (opens in new tab) to watch James Suckling's first interview with Luigi.
"As mentioned previously, I am often wary about sending out smoke signals on a vintage that is about to go into fermentation vats, so I thought Katia's remarks, one after the other, showed real insight into the assessment process which still has a long way to go."
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"The tiny, rugged estate of San Polino perches on the top of a hill about 10 minutes south east of Montalcino in central Italy, above a breathtaking view of the surrounding valleys and hills. The first 300 Sangiovese vines were planted here in 1998, and in 2001 the owners harvested their first vintage from the three-year-old vines. Luigi Fabbro and Katia Nussbaum bought San Polino in the 1990s. The land was virgin, and had nothing but 1.5 ha (3.7 acres) of olive trees".
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